Behaviour
DOING WHAT DOGS DO NATURALLY – Behaviour and are we being fair?
The importance of relevant play
To understand why our dogs are performing these we humans often complain about our dogs’ actions, e.g. “he chews, steals, barks, digs, jumps, chases, guards, herds kids, nips heels, pulls on the lead, escapes from the garden, etc. etc.” This leads to some of our dogs’ behaviours being thought of as problems – when the truth is they just do not suit us. We consider normal dog behaviours as inappropriate and want to stop them.
So, are we being fair to our best friend? Of course not – what we really need to do is manage these behaviours more efficiently and create an outlet for them. Dogs who are not allowed to practice natural behaviours become frustrated – which is when real behaviour problems occur.
To begin with, we should be trying behaviours (sometimes to excess) by gaining knowledge of the breed, training, play and interaction, and providing outlets for them to perform these natural behaviours – safely and appropriately. It is all about the dog’s `needs` and how we can satisfy them.
Understanding the breeds involved in the dog’s make-up:
It is natural that most dogs have it in them to perform the actions required for survival – i.e. stalk, chase, dig, herd, bite, jump, climb, guard, kill etc. Over thousands of years, some of these behaviours have been selected as ‘preferred’ by some breeders and breeds have been developed where certain behaviours are stronger than others. This is why we now have breeds that are selectively designed specifically to; hunt, point, retrieve, herd, race, dig, guard, fight, kill etc.
More Reasons:
Dogs that are; stressed, anxious, uncomfortable, lonely, ignored, bored, depressed, frightened, angry, frustrated, hot, hungry, thirsty, under exercised, tired, excited, in pain or unwell, etc. are more likely to take natural behaviours to extremes – so their well-being may need to be attended to.
Management:
The first step is to make sure that none of the above reasons apply to your dog and, if any do, consult a behavioural trainer or vet, or re-organise the dog’s environment and lifestyle to address the problem. Look at improving the environment – in relation to what your dog has to occupy him, especially when left alone.
Researching your dog’s breed will give you some idea of breed specific behaviours and, if researched before you purchase, the knowledge could help in your choice of a breed most suited to your lifestyle. If you already have your dog, research will still give you an idea of what you can do to satisfy the dog’s natural desire to perform these breed specific behaviours.
Loosely Speaking: Games that incorporate retrieving, scenting, hunting, digging, herding, swimming, jumping or hauling, can all be used to create an outlet for your dog’s natural behaviour. As an example, dogs bred to herd, love to herd a football (as if it was a sheep!) and this can be managed to include your requests to ‘walk up’, ‘lie down’, ‘go right’, ‘go left’, ‘come to me’ and even ‘GOAL’!! Most dogs can learn to do this to some degree (even if they are not natural `herders`), so there is no reason not to have a go at it. However, as owners, we need to accept (and show our pleasure) with the levels of expertise each dog can offer and enjoy. All of these movements, when on cue, can also be put to use in normal everyday life.
RETRIEVING
The Dogs: Gun Dogs, such as Retrievers, Spaniels, Pointers, Setters etc, are bred to assist the hunter. Some are bred specifically to search, flush, point, and retrieve game, both from land and water. The job of the Setters and Pointers is to locate the game and direct the hunter, the Spaniels’ job is to flush out and move the game into the open, and the retrievers’ are there to bring the ‘kill’ back to the hunter. Many of these breeds are capable all-rounders and can do most aspects of the job.
However, the ability to find, hold and carry prey is in the makeup of all breeds of dog even if it is only used in order to prevent someone else getting the prey! All we, as trainers, have to do is to bring it out! So even if your dog was not designed specifically to fetch he or she can still be encouraged to do so by reinforcing and shaping those natural skills. Fetching and finding is great fun, will reinforce a good recall and further enhance the relationship.
Training the retrieve helps recall and control.
The retrieve is made up of several smaller elements – ‘the dog sits, he is sent out, he picks up, he turns, he returns, he gives the article to you’. All these elements need to be trained separately.
The foundation of retrieve training is play. Teach your dog that anything you decide to play with is a toy, involve yourself in the games and encourage him to play with lots of different, safe articles. Never scold a dog that has something in his mouth, even if it is something he shouldn’t have like hubby’s best shirt! Providing the article is not dangerous to dog, or human, encourage it – after all he is retrieving! Play with it with him and let him have it back a few times, then swap it for something he is allowed.
If your dog will not bring things back to you do not fetch them yourself. If you do this he will have taught YOU an extremely good retrieve – with you as the retriever!
Remember never to force a dog – this can lead to total refusal on the dog’s part to retrieve anything. It does not do much for your relationship either.
If your dog has no interest in toys – teach him that they can be fun. Without using cues, get down to his level and tease him with the toy and throw it a little way, holding him gently back for just a few moments to create motivation. Then let him go to it. If he brings it back, throw it again immediately. If not, sit still and ignore him, he may bring it to you when he realises the game has stopped. On no account chase him to take the toy (or anything else) away from him – because that is one game he absolutely loves – above all else!
Some dogs will retrieve a paper ball – especially if they find a treat in it! It is all about getting them started.
Dogs love you to chase them, and they train you to do this by running off with items. You have to refuse to chase them. Try sitting on the floor and inspecting the carpet very closely to encourage him back, swap with a special toy or a treat, or just gently place your finger behind the article to ease it out of his mouth. Providing the article is safe, and not too precious, ask him to ‘give’ the instant he releases it and give it back to him or play with it with him. If you keep taking the articles away from him when he brings them to you he will soon get fed up and take them off to enjoy on his own. Remember that retrieves are supposed to be fun for you both.
Begin retrieve training by playing with the dog’s favourite toy, particularly if he likes to carry it around with him. Watch him to see what he prefers to pick up in his mouth – and encourage it. If he brings it to you, play with him while he has it in his mouth and if he gives it up give it back to him quickly. Do not put any cues, such as ‘fetch’ or ‘hold’ in yet. Build up a really good play relationship with the dog before you start to throw the toy with a view to sending him for it.
Teaching the cues – ‘ hold’ and ‘give’
The first stage is to teach the dog to ‘Hold’ and to `Give up’ an article. If you start with the dog on the lead it will give you more control. It also makes life easier if you use an article the dog likes- but one he doesn’t like too much! After all, you want to make it easy for him at this stage. I use a piece of plastic piping because they usually like it and it is also easy to slide out of the dog’s mouth if he tries to hang on to it. The first step is to get him motivated enough to play with it and then as soon as his teeth close over it, say ‘hold’ and praise. Play with him while he holds on to the article. Make sure you take it before he drops it and, as he releases his grip on it say ‘give’. Reward him by praising enthusiastically and immediately giving him the article back so you can play the game again. The game is his reward.
Do not make the mistake of throwing the article yet. This happens once he will `hold’ and `give’ from first your hand, and then from the floor – within easy reach. If he won’t give it to you when he is stood next to you it is most unlikely that he will do so from afar!
If you have a dog that does not like to hold anything in his mouth try different textures, shapes and sizes. Sometimes using the aforementioned piece of paper, crumpled up with a tit-bit inside it, can start off a retrieve.
Pot Method: Another method is to pierce a small pot or plastic bottle with plenty of holes and fill it with treats that are smelly and tasty. Do not throw the pot for him to fetch. First you just let his nose touch it and instantly reward from the pot. When he touches it each time in your hand, place it on the floor and see if he touches it again. If so, reward. Once he is touching it each time you place it on the floor wait a little to see if he puts his mouth or teeth over it. This is shaping the retrieve gradually.
Once the dog picks it up from the floor and turns towards you, you can begin to increase, very gradually, the distance the pot is placed. Every successful move towards a retrieve is fully rewarded by opening the pot and giving the dog a treat from it. The dog must only get the reward after you have opened the pot and taken a treat out for him. Once the dog hands you the pot from close up there is more chance he will fetch it from a distance. Once the behaviour is put on cue (hold or/give) it can then be transferred on to other articles. Only put the cues in when the dog is actually `holding’ and `giving’ to encourage him to associate the act with the cue. Once he is happy with the cues you can ask him to hold and give before the action.
The complete exercise
Sit your dog by your side and gently hold your arm in front of his chest. Throw the article a short distance and when he gets a little excited ask him to hold and let him go As soon as he picks the article up, call him. When he reaches you, ask him to ‘give’. As he lets you take it immediately throw it again and have a game with it together. Tidying this exercise up can come later.
If he hesitates when asked to go for the retrieve you need to run out with him and when he has the article in his mouth run backwards to the start point before taking it from him and playing with him with it. Do not throw it too far away at first, the distance can be built up gradually.
RETRIEVE GAMES TO PLAY
1. Named articles:
Try teaching your dog to differentiate between different toys. First teach him to fetch a ball by adding the name of the ball onto the hold cue.
Next teach him to fetch something else – adding that name to the hold cue.
Once he knows the names of two different toys you can put them out a little way off and about a metre apart and ask him to fetch one or the other. Position yourself so that if he goes for the wrong toy you can block him off or cover it up.
2. Over Under & Through:
See if you can get him to retrieve over, under or through an object. Using chairs, blankets etc you can create a tunnel, or jump to go over or under. Make sure that the things you build cannot hurt or frighten him. Once he is comfortable when going over, under and through place his toy on the far side of the obstacle and send him to pick it up and bring it back to you. Help him a little at first and he will soon get the idea.
3. Toys in the Basket:
Once he is retrieving well see if you can get him to place his toy in a basket or box. It sometimes helps to place a treat in the basket so that when he holds the toy over the basket it will encourage him to drop it in. Don’t use this lure for too long – once he gets the idea he can be treated from the hand or by throwing another toy for him to pick up.
4. Out of water:
See if you can get your dog to retrieve out of water. Floating articles are best to start with and then, in shallow water, try something which sinks. The sea is good but not always handy so a paddling pool or washing up bowl can serve quite well.
5. Task yourself!!
See if you can invent a different retrieve game – and make sure you are both having FUN!
FINDING THINGS
The Dogs: All dogs are capable of finding things, or people, through scenting – they have very good noses! The obvious experts are the scent hounds such as beagles, bloodhounds and some of the Gun Dog breeds. These breeds have been genetically designed to do this, so they may show a bit more talent for the job. However, if you don’t have a dog designed to scent – it doesn’t matter because, all breeds have noses, like to be doing something with Ma or Pa (You!) and really enjoy a game. Like ‘fetching’ all we have to do is bring it out of our dogs – by shaping each little step towards an end goal and reinforcing these steps. Fetching and finding is lots of fun – and does not have to be regimented to be successful – and all adds to the quality of your relationship with your dog.
The Trainer: Remember to keep everything spontaneous and fun, train in short sessions (of no more than a few minutes). Scent work is mentally tiring for the dog, so go at your dog’s pace. When you increase the degree of difficulty, do it gradually – SLOWLY, SLOWLY, CATCHEE MONKEY – Don’t rush, enjoy each stage as you progress!
Dogs scent on the ground and they also scent the air. Some dogs have a preference and may use one of these methods more than the other. Observe your dog when he is on a trail of something and you will learn and understand more about his ability.
Tracking: This is when a dog follows a track, scenting every step of the way. In this you would have your dog on a long line, attached to a tracking harness, with him being allowed to go ahead of you.
Trailing: The dog follows a trail – but not necessarily each and every step. His head will come up and down to sniff and he may be somewhat downwind of the trail. Bloodhounds (police) trail in this manner and are usually kept on a line because the inbuilt need to follow the scent is so strong. Search and rescue dogs also trail scent.
Air Scenting: Using nose and mouth, the dog can identify a scent (such as a body or an animal), from the flow of air around him. Many search and rescue dogs, pointers and retrievers use this method to identify and follow a scent.
Sent Discrimination: An Obedience Trial exercise. A dog is shown a number of articles from which he has to select one with a specific scent on it. He then takes this & delivers it to his handler.
Seek-back: An Obedience Trial exercise. This is where the dog is sent back to find an article- which has been hidden behind him – while he is walking with his owner.
TURNING THE TALENT INTO A GAME – For Fun! You can use the skills needed for each of those above to just have a bit of fun with your dog.
Cues: The word itself does not matter, but the most frequently used are ‘find’ or ‘seek’. Don’t add the cue until the dog is doing the job. One way of introducing the cue is to throw a handful of food on the floor and, as he sniffs out each one, say “find” or “seek” just as he is about to eat it. This way he is rewarded for using his nose and learns that the cue means ‘sniff something out’.
Early learning: The dog needs to be happy to pick up a toy and give it up to you when he is asked. If he is not a brilliant retriever, some of these games can give him the motivation and drive needed to encourage him. Until then, make the ‘find’ the exciting bit – and always hide something he likes.
SCENT GAMES
1. Find the toy. A toy you can hide in your hand is good for this one and you may need to start with your dog on lead, secured, or with someone else holding him, while you place his toy. Your happy attitude is important at all times during his training games – this is supposed to be fun, not drill!
Indoors: This can be in a room in the house. Hide his toy somewhere fairly obvious – then help him find it. Gradually hide it in more difficult places, i.e. behind a chair or door, or under something like a cloth or cushion. Then secure him outside a room and hide the toy somewhere in the room. Make it harder by using different rooms – he can then go from one to the other to find the toy you have hidden.
Increase the criteria (once dog knows the game) by throwing a number of articles into a room and then asking him to find them one at a time.
Outdoors: Set yourself up where there is some long grass or bushes. (First make sure area is free of snakes!!) Show the dog his favourite toy, move together from the start point to the area you are going to hide the toy. Pretend to hide the toy in several places along a row in the bushes or grass, but actually hide it in one of those places without the dog seeing you. Once placed, carry on pretending for a couple more places.
Go back to your start point and then run with your dog and let him sniff along the line until he finds his toy. You then give him the cue as he finds it and play with him with his toy all the way back to the start point (this is where he going to bring it when he is doing it on his own) take the toy off him and repeat the exercise.
Don’t ask him to “wait” or “stay” while you place the article until he is really good and he is able to wait easily. Eventually you will be able to ask him to ’wait’, walk off to place the toy somewhere more difficult, return to your dog and ask him to ‘seek’ or ‘find’ his toy, he will then find it, bring it to you and place it in your hands.
Extend by increasing distance and using different toys and articles. You can also add variety by hanging the toy in a bush – not too high though!
2. Find Dropped Article. With a small article (one he likes) in your hand, walk along a short route with your dog and discretely drop the article behind you. The dog must not see the article dropped. Walk on a bit further and turn and ask your dog to find his article. Help him at first (to give him the confidence which comes with success). A game with the “found” article is a good reward.
Extend this by using different articles, and a longer and more intricate walk pattern.
3. Scent Square. Set up an area in long grass, (or rocks on the beach etc.) and mark the area with pebbles, posts or cones. Without the dog seeing, hide up to 15 articles, in this area and send your dog to seek them out and bring them to you. Play with each article he brings you – then send him for another one.
Start with a few articles, gradually increasing the number of articles but decreasing their size at each session. Let him know when he has finished searching!
4. Find the Lady. Hide a piece of food under a cup and when the dog noses it, lift the cup and reward with the food. Next, take another cup and set about 12 inches away from the first one, place a treat under one of them and then let him find which cup the treat is under. Gradually build up the number of cups before putting the food under one and mixing them up. Try not to go over the same ground each time as the smells on the ground from earlier food will confuse him.
Extend by teaching the dog to indicate his ‘find’ by touching his chosen cup with his paw.
These are just a few examples of the games you can play – using the dog’s natural scenting behaviour. Don’t forget to help him if he needs it. It is up to you to make the success happen.
5. Mine! For this you need a lot of identical pieces of cloth about 6 inches square.
A tiny piece of food on cloths teaches him to sniff. Once your dog has learned food is there, use extremely tiny pieces of food.
Do this until the dog will go up a line of 20 cloths to find food – then a rapid change of association is necessary.
Rub your hands on 9 cloths and have one unhandled cloth (use tweezers or gloves to handle this cloth – to avoid transferring your). Put food (tiny) on all cloths with handler’s scent only – leaving the “unhandled cloth” untainted.
Next, place a tiny piece of chicken underneath cloths – so that handler’s scent is the primary scent. Put nothing under the clean cloth. When dog sniffs at the scented cloths, he is rewarded by the chicken (He learns that unscented cloths do not bring rewards). Then start reducing the handler’s scented cloths and putting out more unscented cloths (for example, 9 -1, 8-2, 7-3, 6-4 etc.
Note: Don’t ever place an unscented cloth on top of where a scented cloth has been. Cloths placed on the floor also puts scent on floor, so be careful not to go over same ground. Don’t hold cloth or hands over dog’s nose.
There are many other games you can play through scent work – see if you can make one up.
Stress level to bite
